Coleção: Rolex Datejust 69173: The Iconic Two-Tone Lady-Datejust

The Rolex Datejust 69173 is one of the most recognizable vintage Rolex watches for women. Combining a 26mm case, stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, a fluted gold bezel and the iconic Jubilee bracelet, the 69173 represents a classic era of Rolex design that remains highly desirable on the pre-owned market.

For collectors and buyers looking for a vintage Rolex with timeless proportions, everyday wearability and unmistakable Rolex character, the Datejust 69173 is an excellent choice.

The History of the Rolex 69173

The Rolex Datejust 69173 belongs to the Lady-Datejust family and was produced primarily during the 1980s and 1990s. The reference became one of the defining women's Rolex models of its generation, offering the same instantly recognizable Datejust design in a compact 26mm case.

The 69173 is part of the generation of Datejust watches that helped establish the two-tone Rolex as a symbol of understated luxury. Its combination of Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold, known as Rolesor, gives the watch a distinctive appearance without making it excessively formal.

Today, the 69173 occupies an interesting position in the Rolex market. It is old enough to have genuine vintage and neo-vintage appeal, yet modern enough to feature a sapphire crystal, automatic movement and the practical date display with Rolex's signature Cyclops lens.

Rolex Datejust 69173: Design and Proportions

One of the defining characteristics of the Rolex 69173 is its 26mm case.

The smaller proportions are very different from the larger Rolex watches that dominate today's market, but they are also one of the reasons the 69173 has developed such a strong following among collectors and buyers looking for a classic Lady-Datejust.

The 26mm case creates an elegant and discreet presence on the wrist, while the combination of the fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet immediately identifies the watch as a Rolex Datejust.

The classic configuration consists of:

• 26mm Oyster case
• Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold construction
• Fluted 18k yellow gold bezel
• Two-tone Jubilee bracelet
• Sapphire crystal
• Date display at 3 o'clock
• Cyclops magnification lens
• Automatic movement

The result is a watch that can be worn every day while still retaining the distinctive character associated with a classic Rolex.

Rolex 69173 Two-Tone: Why It Remains So Popular

The two-tone configuration is arguably the defining look of the 69173.

The combination of stainless steel and yellow gold gives the watch a warmer appearance than an all-steel Datejust while remaining more versatile than an entirely gold watch.

The gold fluted bezel catches the light, while the polished gold centre links of the Jubilee bracelet create the traditional Rolex aesthetic that many collectors associate with the Datejust.

This combination has remained popular for decades because it works equally well with casual and formal clothing.

For buyers searching for a classic Rolex with a strong visual identity, the 69173 two-tone configuration remains one of the most recognizable options.

Rolex 69173 Dials

One of the most interesting aspects of the 69173 is the variety of dials available.

Depending on the individual watch, buyers can find the reference with configurations including champagne, silver, black, blue and white dials, alongside different hour-marker designs.

Some examples feature simple baton markers, while others can be found with Roman numerals or diamond-set hour markers.

This variety makes buying a 69173 particularly interesting for collectors. Two watches with the same reference number can have completely different personalities depending on their dial configuration.

For collectors, original dial configurations can also be an important consideration when evaluating a vintage or neo-vintage Rolex.

Sapphire Crystal and Cyclops Date

Another reason the Rolex 69173 remains so wearable today is its sapphire crystal.

Unlike earlier vintage Datejust references that used acrylic crystals, the 69173 features scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, making it considerably more practical for everyday use.

At 3 o'clock, the date is magnified by Rolex's famous Cyclops lens, one of the most recognizable features of the Datejust collection.

These details give the 69173 an interesting balance between vintage aesthetics and modern practicality.

Is the Rolex 69173 a Good Investment?

The Rolex 69173 is better viewed as a long-term value-retention watch rather than a short-term investment.

Its popularity comes from several factors: the enduring appeal of the Datejust design, the recognizability of the Rolex name, the classic two-tone configuration and the growing interest in older Rolex references.

The secondary market also offers a wide range of 69173 watches at different price points depending on condition, dial, bracelet condition, production period and whether the watch comes with its original box and papers.

Rolex 69173 vs Modern Lady-Datejust

The 69173 and modern Lady-Datejust models represent two very different approaches to the same iconic Rolex concept.

Modern Rolex Lady-Datejust watches are available in larger 28mm proportions and benefit from newer movements and contemporary manufacturing technology.

The 69173, however, offers something modern watches cannot replicate: the character of a Rolex from the 1980s and 1990s.

Its 26mm case, classic two-tone design and vintage-era details give it a distinctive personality that appeals to buyers who prefer traditional Rolex proportions.

For someone looking for a Rolex that feels elegant, discreet and timeless rather than oversized or contemporary, the 69173 remains an especially compelling choice.

Why Buy a Rolex Datejust 69173 in 2026?

The Rolex Datejust 69173 sits at an interesting point in the pre-owned Rolex market.

It offers the heritage of an older Rolex reference without some of the fragility associated with much earlier vintage watches. Its sapphire crystal, automatic movement and practical 26mm Oyster case make it suitable for regular wear, while its two-tone design, Jubilee bracelet and fluted bezel provide the unmistakable appearance of a classic Rolex.

Chrono24's current listings demonstrate the breadth of the 69173 market, with examples available in numerous dial and material configurations and from different production periods.

For buyers who want a genuine Rolex Datejust with vintage character without moving into the much higher prices associated with many vintage sports references, the 69173 is an attractive option.

In the end...

The Rolex Datejust 69173 is a classic example of why older Rolex watches continue to attract new generations of collectors.

Its 26mm proportions, two-tone Rolesor construction, fluted yellow gold bezel and Jubilee bracelet create one of the most recognizable Rolex combinations ever produced.

Whether you are buying your first Rolex, looking for a vintage-inspired everyday watch or adding a Lady-Datejust to an existing collection, the 69173 offers an appealing combination of history, elegance and everyday practicality.

At Debonar Watches, we specialize in carefully selected pre-owned Rolex watches, with each piece evaluated for authenticity, condition and overall quality.

Explore our available Rolex Datejust 69173 watches and discover the timeless appeal of this classic Rolex reference.