Who were the "Dirty Dozen" and what are they doing nowadays?

The "Dirty Dozen" refers to a group of twelve Swiss watch manufacturers who, during World War II, were commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence to produce durable and reliable military wristwatches. These watches were made to strict specifications to meet the needs of soldiers in the field.

The "Dirty Dozen" watches are highly collectible today and have a storied history.

Here are the twelve manufacturers and some details about the watches they produced:

1. Buren: Known for their robust designs, Buren's military watches featured simple, legible dials and durable cases.

2. Cyma: Cyma's contribution to the Dirty Dozen was marked by their precision and reliability. They used high-quality movements that ensured accuracy.

3. Eterna: Eterna is noted for their innovation, including the development of the ball-bearing mounted rotor. Their military watches were appreciated for their durability.

4. Grana: Grana is one of the rarest and most sought-after Dirty Dozen watches. They were known for their high-quality movements and reliability in harsh conditions.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre: This prestigious manufacturer provided watches that combined robust functionality with high-grade horology. Their models are highly collectible.

6. Lemania: Lemania was known for producing reliable chronographs and movements. Their Dirty Dozen watches were highly functional and precise.

7. Longines: A renowned brand, Longines produced military watches with excellent timekeeping abilities and sturdy designs.

8. IWC (International Watch Company): IWC's contribution to the Dirty Dozen featured their characteristic engineering excellence and precise movements.

9. Omega: Omega, already famous for their high-quality timepieces, produced military watches that were both robust and precise.

10. Record: Record is lesser-known but provided reliable and durable watches for the British military effort.

11. Timor: Timor's military watches were valued for their reliability and straightforward, functional design.

12. Vertex: Vertex produced durable and accurate watches that were standard issue for many British soldiers during the war.

Common Features of the Dirty Dozen Watches:

• Black Dial: Designed for legibility, especially in low-light conditions.
• Luminous Hands and Markers: Typically coated with radium for visibility in the dark.
• Stainless Steel Case: Durable and resistant to harsh environments.
• Water Resistance: Ensured the watches could withstand the wet conditions often encountered by soldiers.
• Reliable Movements: Manual-winding mechanical movements that could endure the rigors of wartime.

These watches were made to be tough, reliable, and easy to read, which were crucial characteristics for military timepieces. Today, collectors highly prize them for their historical significance, craftsmanship, and the challenge of assembling a complete set of the "Dirty Dozen."


Is Rolex part of this group?

Rolex is not part of the "Dirty Dozen." The "Dirty Dozen" refers specifically to the twelve Swiss watch manufacturers that were contracted by the British Ministry of Defence during World War II to produce military watches that met stringent specifications for durability, reliability, and legibility.
Rolex, despite being a prominent Swiss watchmaker known for its high-quality timepieces, was not among the brands selected for this particular military contract.

Rolex did, however, produce military watches during and after World War II for various armed forces, including the British military. One notable example is the Rolex "MilSub" (Military Submariner), which was issued to British Royal Navy divers in the 1950s and 1970s.
These watches are also highly prized by collectors today but are separate from the "Dirty Dozen" collection.


What happened to the "Dirty Dozen" in recent days?

The "Dirty Dozen" watches have become highly collectible and sought-after pieces in the vintage watch market. Here’s what has happened to them and their legacy:

1. Collectibility and Value:

   • The Dirty Dozen watches are highly prized by collectors due to their historical significance, craftsmanship, and the challenge of completing a set of all twelve brands.
   • Prices for these watches have increased significantly over the years, especially for well-preserved examples and rarer brands like Grana.
     
     

2. Preservation and Restoration:

   • Many Dirty Dozen watches have been carefully preserved and restored by watch enthusiasts and professionals. Original parts and faithful restorations are especially valued.
   • Some collectors and sellers specialize in military watches, ensuring that these pieces are maintained to high standards.
     
     

3. Historical Significance:

   • The story and historical context of the Dirty Dozen watches add to their allure. They are often featured in watch exhibitions, books, and articles dedicated to military timepieces.
   • The history of these watches during WWII is a significant draw for both watch enthusiasts and history buffs.
     
     

4. Modern Influence:

   • The design and functionality of the Dirty Dozen watches have influenced modern watchmaking, particularly in the military and field watch categories.
   • Several watch brands, including some of the original Dirty Dozen manufacturers, have released modern reissues or inspired-by models that pay homage to these iconic timepieces.
     
     

5. Brand Legacy:

   • Some of the brands from the Dirty Dozen are still active in the watch industry today, like Omega, Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC. These brands continue to be highly respected and have built on their wartime legacy to reinforce their reputations for quality and precision.
   • Other brands, like Grana (which became Certina), are less prominent but still recognized by collectors and historians.
     
     

6. Market Trends:

   • Auctions and vintage watch dealers often feature Dirty Dozen watches, and these pieces regularly attract significant interest and high bids.
   • Online platforms and watch forums also serve as marketplaces and communities where enthusiasts can buy, sell, and discuss Dirty Dozen watches.

In summary, the Dirty Dozen watches have maintained a significant place in the watch collecting world due to their historical importance, distinctive design, and the prestige of the brands involved.

They continue to be a symbol of fine watchmaking and military heritage, celebrated by collectors and watchmakers alike.


Credit tot he post picture: Watches of Knigthsbridge – WatchLounge